The venue for Wales's opening World Cup game is not entirely immune to the charms of the oval-ball game - the infamous Battle of Nantes, when France beat the All Blacks 21 years ago, was one of the most brutal internationals of the era. But this is a football stronghold and Marcel Desailly and Didier Deschamps once played for the local club.

Tomorrow afternoon, though, any curious football followers in France's sixth largest city should see a game that will be played in a better spirit than that match in 1986. Wales take on a bunch of Canadians who claim to be the best prepared Canucks' squad since 1991, when rugby's frontiersmen pushed the All Blacks to the limit in a famous quarter-final in Lille.

A Wales side led by Jonathan Davies put 40 points past Canada in the inaugural World Cup six months after the Battle of Nantes but while it would be a major shock if the Welsh lost tomorrow, Gareth Jenkins's side may not find life as comfortable as their predecessors.

The World Cup build-up has been as fraught as ever for Wales. A gratifying win over Argentina was sandwiched between a shellacking by England and a heavy home defeat by France. Jenkins, meanwhile, has been increasingly sensitive to the barbs hurled by newspapers in Wales - he refuses to speak to the Western Mail after what he deems unfair personal abuse, and the situation has become a distraction for his squad.

Much criticism stemmed from Jenkins's decision to stay loyal to the Llanelli Scarlet's fly-half Stephen Jones rather than the prodigiously talented James Hook, who orchestrated England's downfall last spring. Jones returns to the bench this weekend after a hip injury, so Hook plays outside Dwayne Peel, who becomes Wales's 124th captain with Gareth Thomas also among the replacements. However Thomas, who is involved in his fourth World Cup, will almost certainly start in next Saturday's crucial Pool B game with Australia in Cardiff. The centre, who has returned from Toulouse to play club rugby in Wales, has firm views on what would be a successful World Cup.

"We surprised a few people in the last World Cup after being written off, but well though we played against New Zealand and England, we lost both matches having been in positions to win them," Thomas said. "We returned home to a rapturous reception, which I thought was a bit over the top, because we had not done as well as we should have.

"I do not want any player thinking that it will be job done if we reach the quarter-finals this time. We cannot be satisfied with that: the quarter-finals is our minimum target and if we lose in the last eight, there must be no puffing out of chests."

Canada will not be taken lightly either. "It is vitally important that we get off to a good start and we will not be underestimating them," he added. "We have been preparing a long time for this tournament and the spirit in the squad could not be better."

Jenkins insists that Thomas has not been dropped, but says that he wants to rest him and give Sonny Parker a run-out in the centre. Even the coach's harshest critics could not disagree with that. Against France last month Thomas had to be helped off the pitch before having 20 stitches inserted in three facial cuts.

Jenkins, who coached Peel at Llanelli Scarlets, has little doubt that the new captain has leadership qualities. "He is the very definition of a professional rugby player and a core member of our squad. When you look at a captain, the most important thing is, 'Has he got the ability to influence and tactically affect the game by making key decisions at key times?' I am confident Dwayne can do that. He might not be as boisterous and flamboyant as Gareth, but that doesn't mean he hasn't got the same type of respect."

Peel will lead the team out at Stade de la Beaujoire tomorrow, with five Wales captains watching from the bench. Along with Thomas and Stephen Jones, Duncan Jones, Colin Charvis and Michael Owen are among the replacements. Hook, the hooker Matthew Rees and the locks Ian Gough and Alun-Wyn Jones will all make their World Cup debuts.

Canada's head coach, Ric Suggitt, yesterday named some grizzled forwards in a side showing nine changes from the one which shipped 61 points against Wales at the Millennium Stadium last November. Rod Snow, Jon Thiel, Jamie Cudmore and Mike James have all been included, with the 37-year-old former Newport prop Snow coming out of international retirement for the tournament.

Wales v Canada

Stade de la Beaujoire, Nantes Tomorrow, 2pm Referee A Lewis (Ireland)

15 Kevin Morgan Dragons

14 Mark Jones Scarlets

13 Tom Shanklin Blues

12 Sonny Parker Ospreys

11 Shane Williams Ospreys

10 James Hook Ospreys

9 Dwayne Peel (Sc'lets, capt)

1 Gethin Jenkins (Blues)

2 Matthew Rees (Scarlets)

3 Adam Jones (Ospreys)

4 Ian Gough (Ospreys)

5 A W Jones (Ospreys)

6 Jonathan Thomas (Ospreys)

7 Martyn Williams (Blues)

8 Alix Popham (Scarlets)

Replacements Rhys Thomas (Blues), D Jones (Ospreys) M Owen (Dragons), C Charvis (Dragons), M Phillips (Ospreys)

S Jones (Scarlets), G Thomas (Blues) 15 Mike Pyke Montauban

14 Daniel van der Merwe James Bay

13 Craig Culpan Meralomas

12 David Spicer Victoria U

11 James Pritchard Bedford

10 Ander Monro Edinburgh

9 Morgan Williams Albi, capt

1 Rod Snow Newf'd

2 Pat Riordan Burnaby

3 Jon Thiel Bayside

4 Luke Tait Parma

5 Mike James Stade

6 Jamie Cudmore Clermont

7 David Biddle Meralomas

8 Sean Stephen Beziers

Replacements A Carpenter, D Pletch, M Pletch, M Burak, C Yukes, E Fairhurst, R Smith